Calories schmalories!

Beryl’s pastries: Not low cal
Tue, 05/31/2016 - 9:30am

If you’re looking for a low-calorie snack this summer, don’t go to the Beryl’s Pastries stand at the Boothbay Farmers’ market.

But if you’re looking to indulge in something mouth-wateringly delectable, do.

Beryl's Pastries is among the stars of the show at the market. Beryl Sidelinger has been making mostly sweet, and some savory, confections since 1994, and it shows. There’s a line of people at her stand every Thursday, and her pastries are pretty much sold out by the time she packs up to leave.

She’s been doing summer farmers markets since 2008. And she said there is an indoor winter market in Bath November through April. “It's amazing – it does very well, especially around the holidays,” she said. “There's music, and it's in a really a neat place — the old freight shed. People should check it out.”

Susie McGinnis was among the patrons lining up for the confections on Thursday, May 26. “I come all the way from an island to get some of Beryl's pastries,” she said. “Every Thursday I get in my boat and row from Davis Island to the Southport Yacht Club dock, then I get in my car and come to the farmers market and head directly to Beryl's. I love her pastries.”

Sidelinger, who lives in Richmond, attended the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont, and has been a pastry chef at several places around the Midcoast area, including Chebeague Island Inn, the Harraseeket Inn in Freeport, Henry and Marty Restaurant in Brunswick and Standard Baking Co. in Portland.

Sidelinger said that her scones are her best sellers. She has a few sweet ones and a savory one made with whole wheat flour, bacon, scallions and Asiago cheese. There were no savory ones left there at 10 a.m. on Thursday, May 26. They had already sold out. Luckily there were still a few cranberry-orange, blueberry-lemon and crystallized ginger.

Then there are the small rich-looking dark brown ginger cakes. Sidelinger said they’re popular, too. “They're very unusual — sticky and moist — they have Guinness beer in them.” And then there are the little lemon cream cheese pound cakes. They defy description. And blueberry and tart lemon pies and tarts. Rugelach, a buttery, flaky confection made with cinnamon and crushed walnuts ... the list goes on.

Sidelinger said that when she went to cooking school she was encouraged to try to make her own recipes by making changes in the recipes she found. “I've tried to do that with a lot of the things I make, but some I don't want to fiddle with because they're good just the way they are.”

She used to make a wider variety of items, including laminated (croissant style) dough, but she was working 80 hours a week, so she had to cut back some. “I was making chocolate croissants and three savory braided croissants. Just making that dough was a three-day process. The 80 hours were pretty much doing me in.” She said she has cut back from the 80 hours, but still puts in 60 to 65, not including the time she spends at farmers markets.

“I love everything I make because I couldn't possibly make anything I wouldn't eat.” Sidelinger said. “I just try to control myself. But when chocolate chip cookies come out of the oven, and they're warm and the chocolate is melting, it's all I can do not to eat one.”

Another customer came up to the counter. “I'm addicted to Beryl's Pastries,” Ann Springhorn said. “I have to come here every Thursday to get something.”