Damariscove
One of my favorite adventures, if you can call it that, has always been visits to Damariscove Island. It’s a pretty special place with tons of history, going way back, well before my times here in Maine. Much can be learned about the island from the research and writings of Chip Griffin who actually wrote a book about Damariscove called “Coming of age on Damariscove Island.” Chip is the go-to guy when it comes to the history of the island and has shared his knowledge frequently for our benefit. It is a rich history, full of twists and turns that are, in many cases, difficult to consider. At five or six miles out to sea from Boothbay Harbor, it’s hard to imagine how “developed” it once was with farms and families.
I have visited the island quite a few times with our treasured captain Mark Stover. Mark loves the island and is quite happy to share a private trip with interested parties. He is an experienced captain and well aware of the special approaches to Damariscove harbor and with where he can and cannot tie up or drop anchor. In summer, things can get a little busy which is why sometimes off season visits are more practical.
My first knowledge of the island came when I met John and Robin Hammond who lived on their boat there for 16 years. I met them when they were doing repairs to their boat at the old Goudy and Stevens yard in East Boothbay. From years of work around area shipyards, even I, flatlander that I am, could tell that there was need for much help on their vessel. They worked mostly on their own even when Robin was quite pregnant. To say they were seriously energetic would be a mild understatement. They worked diligently on repairs.
I have always been fascinated by the old Coast Guard station building on the island. Today’s accompanying photo was made a while back during a Mark Stover boat visit. He was taking a group of folks from Mississippi for a scenic boat ride and asked if I’d care to join along. Duh!
“You betcha.” We had a grand time and the guests on board were thrilled for the opportunity to visit such a unique and interesting place. Mark maneuvered his boat, Red Hook, to tie up alongside Captain Billy Hallinan’s float (with historic permission) so we could all get off the boat and explore a bit. It is all but impossible to imagine living there, as did the Hammond family, especially year around. Winters there must be brutal.
Over the years during visits to Damariscove, I generally gravitated to the areas around the old station. Mostly, there were no signs of anyone living there. Such is not the case today as I believe the station has been purchased and is a private seasonal residence. But, from the water, the once referred to “Damariscove Lifesaving station” is a rather majestic structure which conjures thoughts of mysteries. I found it kind of spooky actually, especially when I poked around inside while it was empty. I’d bet there are some stories!
If you ever have a chance to visit Damariscove, don’t pass it up. Now that the Land Trust folk are the present island stewards, I suspect they’d like responsible and careful visitors. Captain Stover is very respectful and instructive about proper care for the island and the many spirits who reside there.
