As we were cleaning out the last of our gardens over the weekend (hooray), I found my pie plant poking through the earth. Pie plant, you ask? Yup, that’s the old-fashioned nickname for rhubarb, probably dubbed because that’s historically the primary use for this vegetable.

Yes, it is classified botanically as a veggie, but usually it is used like fruit, though rarely eaten raw. Like fresh cranberries, rhubarb on its own is unbearably tart and definitely needs a shot of added sweetness either in the form of sugar or honey or by combining with sweet fruits to balance out the tartness and acidity.

Rhubarb is a relative of buckwheat and has a distinctive earthy, sour flavor. It is thought to have originated in Western China, and is known to grow in Tibet, Mongolia and Siberia.

Its primary use was as a medicine (in the form of the dried root) and was used to treat a wide variety of illnesses. By the 18th century, rhubarb was being consumed as a food, mostly in drinks or stews containing meat and other vegetables. Most of the rhubarb grown in the United States today is frozen for institutional and commercial use with only about one quarter of the harvest sold fresh.

When purchasing fresh rhubarb, select stalks that are flat and not curled or limp. Size is not an indicator of tenderness, but rhubarb stalks that are deep red in color tend to be sweeter in flavor. Both cooked and raw rhubarb freeze well.

To prepare for use, cut off and discard the leaves. (Note: Never eat rhubarb leaves, either cooked or raw, as the leaves contain oxalic acid which is poisonous.)

Rinse stalks well and trim top and bottom. The skin may be peeled or left on, your preference. Use only non-reactive (non-aluminum) pots for cooking rhubarb.

Rhubarb cheesecake squares

For the crust:

• 1-1/4 cups all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup uncooked oats (use old fashioned)
• 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into 1 inch pieces

Fore the filling:

• 1 pkg. (8 oz.) cream cheese, softened
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• 1-1/2 cups finely chopped fresh or frozen rhubarb (do not thaw if frozen)

To prepare the crust: Combine flour, oats and brown sugar in a medium bowl. Cut in butter until crumbly. Measure out and reserve 1 cup of the crumb mixture; press remaining mixture onto the bottom of a greased 9-inch-square baking pan. Set aside.

To prepare the filling: Place cream cheese and sugar in a medium bowl and with electric mixer on medium speed, beat until smooth. Add salt, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg and beat again. Add egg and beat on low speed just until combined. Using a wooden spoon, stir in rhubarb; pour mixture over crust. Sprinkle with reserved 1 cup of crumb mixture.

Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35-40 minutes or until set. Cool on a wire rack for 1 hour and then refrigerate at least 2 hours before cutting into squares. Yield: 16 squares. (1 square equals 214 calories, 11 g of fat (7 g saturated fat), 44 mg cholesterol, 164 mg sodium, 26 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 3 g protein)

Rhubarb apple pie

• Pastry for a 1 crust 9-inch pie plate

For the filling:

• 3-1/2 cups sliced fresh rhubarb (about 1-1/4 lb.)
• 2 Granny Smith apples; peeled, cored and sliced
• 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 3 Tbsp. all purpose flour

For the topping:

• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/8 tsp. salt
• 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
• 6 Tbsp. cold butter, cut into small pieces
• 1/3 cup chopped walnuts

Fit pastry into a 9-inch pie plate; turn edges under and flute. Set aside.

To prepare the filling: Combine rhubarb and apples in a medium bowl; sprinkle with lemon juice and toss to coat. In a small bowl combine sugar with cinnamon, salt and flour. Add to apple/rhubarb mixture, tossing to combine. Spoon into prepared crust.

To prepare the topping: Combine flour, salt, and brown sugar in a medium bowl; cut butter into flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. Stir in walnuts. Sprinkle mixture evenly over top of pie and bake in a preheated 425°F oven for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F and continue baking for 25-30 minutes or until golden brown and bubbly around the edges. Remove from oven place on wire rack to cool for 20 minutes before slicing. Yield: 12 servings.

Toasted pecan and rhubarb bread

• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
• 2 large eggs
• 1 cup buttermilk (see tip*)
• 2 cups all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup chopped pecans, lightly toasted
• 1/2 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. baking soda
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• 1 cup diced rhubarb
• 1 Tbsp. sugar

Combine sugar and butter in a large bowl; beat on medium speed of electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add eggs; beat well. Add buttermilk and beat to blend.

Combine flour, pecans, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl; mix well. Add to buttermilk mixture stirring just until dry ingredients are moistened. Fold in rhubarb. Pour batter into a 9x5x4-inch loaf pan with just the bottom coated with non-stick spray. Sprinkle batter with 1 Tbsp. of sugar. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 55-60 minutes or until tester inserted near center comes out clean. Cool 15 minutes and then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Yield: 1 loaf/about 16 slices.

*To make buttermilk, add 1 Tbsp. lemon juice or vinegar to a 1 cup measure. Add enough milk to equal 1 cup total.

Strawberry rhubarb muffins

• 2 cups all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 Tbsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 1/3 cup vegetable oil
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 cup diced fresh rhubarb
• 1/2 cup diced fresh strawberries
• Extra sugar for top of muffins

Combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. In a small bowl, combine milk, oil and egg, beating well and then add to dry ingredients; stir just until dry ingredients are moistened. Gently fold in rhubarb and strawberries. Divide batter between 12 paper-lined muffin cups and sprinkle tops with sugar.

Bake in a preheated 400°F for 18 to 20 minutes or until tester inserted near center comes out clean. Cool 5 minutes; remove from muffin pan. Yield: 12 muffins.

Rhubarb-cucumber salsa

• 1-1/2 cups 1/4-inch dice rhubarb
• 1 cup 1/4-inch dice cucumber
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 Tbsp. honey
• 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
• 1 tsp. fresh lime juice
• 4 green onions, finely chopped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine rhubarb, cucumber, cilantro, honey, oil, lime juice and green onions and toss well. Season with salt and pepper. Let stand at least 15 minutes before serving. Yield: 2 cups.

Paula Anderson is a freelance journalist specializing in food, entertaining and nutrition. She writes for several newspapers, as well as Maine Food & Lifestyle Magazine. She divides her time between Scarborough and Big Pine Key, Fla., where she lives with her husband Peter. Correspondence can be addressed to her at the Boothbay Register, P.O. Box 357, Boothbay Harbor, ME 04538 or the Wiscasset Newspaper, P.O. Box 429, Wiscasset, ME 04578. You can also write to her directly via email at pander@maine.rr.com.