Garam masala and the best veggie burgers
Moving twice in a few week’s time definitely forces you to step back and do a lot of sorting, culling and reorganizing. We’ve accomplished phase 1 of the dual move, switching from the winter digs in the Keys to the new house in Hobe Sound.
By the time you read this week’s column, we’ll be smack dab in the middle of phase 2 with more packing as we prepare to head back to Maine for the summer.
I have a catch-all basket on my desk that houses snippets of this and that, questions people have asked, ideas for new columns, sources for unusual ingredients, a real hodge-podge of good stuff! Read on for what’s on your fellow readers’ minds.
QUESTION FROM JUDY: So I know why you “grease” a pan (so that what your baking doesn’t stick) but why then coat with flour?
ANSWER: The flour helps the cake batter grab the sides of the pan so that the finished product will have risen evenly. It also creates a barrier between the butter and the batter to prevent the butter from melting into the batter. Tip: I always use unsweetened cocoa power rather than flour to dust the pans when baking a chocolate cake; no white ring on the dark edges of the cake!
QUESTION FROM LEE: What is garam masala?
ANSWER: Garam masala is a spice blend (usually toasted and ground) that is commonly used in the cuisine of India. There are dozens of variations, but most contain a combo of cinnamon, cumin, cloves, nutmeg, mace, coriander, cardamom and black pepper. Traditionally, Indian women make their own personal blend at home from scratch and tailor it to their liking, but you can buy it in the spice aisle of most larger supermarkets.
Garam masala
- 4 sticks of cinnamon, each about 3 inches long
- 3/4 cup cardamom seed in pods
- 3 Tbsp. whole cloves
- 6 Tbsp. cumin seeds
- 3 Tbsp. coriander seeds
- 3 Tbsp. whole peppercorns
Spread spices out in an even layer on a baking sheet and roast in a preheated 200°F oven or 20 minutes, shaking pan every 5 minutes. Cool. Break open cardamom pods and remove tiny black seeds. Combine with other spices in a blender or grinder and process to a fine powder. Store in a jar with a tight fitting lid in a cool, dry place. Yield: about 1cup.
Toasted Indian spiced cashews
- 4 cups unsalted cashews
- 1 large egg white, beaten until slightly foamy
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar
- 4 tsp. garam masala, homemade (recipe above) or purchased
- 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
- 1/2 to 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
Place cashews in a large bowl and add egg white. Toss with clean hands until nuts are coated evenly with the egg white. In a small bowl, combine sugar with garam masala, kosher salt and cayenne and mix well. Sprinkle over nuts and toss again to coat evenly.
Spread nuts on a parchment lined baking sheet baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 325°F oven for 30-35 minutes, stirring and breaking up clumps if necessary, until golden brown. When cool store in a covered container. Yield: 4 cups.
QUESTION FROM LISA:How can I make a good veggie burger at home? The ones you buy in the supermarket are so expensive! Also, do you have a good recipe for making a vegetarian soup stock? The store-bought brands I’ve tried have very little flavor.
ANSWER: This recipe takes a little time and a lot of dishes, but the end result is worth it.
Best veggie burgers
- 3/4 cup dried brown lentils, rinsed and picked over
- 2-1/2 tsp. salt, divided use
- 3/4 cup bulgur wheat
- 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided use
- 2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped (about 2 cups)
- 2 stalks celery, peeled and finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
- 1 small leek, white and light green parts only, cleaned and finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
- 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced
- 1 lb. crimini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced about 1/4 inch thick (about 6-1/2 cups)
- 1 cup raw unsalted cashews
- 1/3 cup mayonnaise (full fat mayo works best in this recipe)
- 2 cups panko
- 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Combine lentils with 3 cups of water and 1 tsp. salt in a large pan set over high heat; bring to a boil and then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lentils are just beginning to fall apart, about 25 minutes. Drain in fine-mesh strainer. Line baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels and spread drained lentils over. Gently pat lentils dry with additional paper towels; cool lentils to room temperature.
Meanwhile, combine 2 cups water and 1/2 tsp. salt in a small saucepan set over high heat: bring to a boil. Stir in bulgur wheat and cover immediately; remove pan from heat and let stand 15-20 minutes or until water is absorbed. Drain in fine-mesh strainer, pressing out excess moisture with the back of a spoon. Transfer bulgur to medium bowl and set aside.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat. When hot, add onions, celery, leek, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes or until vegetables begin to brown. Spread vegetable mixture on second baking sheet to cool; set aside. Add remaining 1 Tbsp. oil to now-empty skillet set over high heat. When hot, add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10-12 minutes or until golden brown. Spread mushrooms on baking sheet with vegetable mixture; cool 20 minutes.
Process cashews in food processor until finely chopped, and then stir into bowl with bulgur along with cooled lentils, vegetable-mushroom mixture, and mayonnaise. Transfer half of mixture to food processor and pulse using on/off turns until coarsely chopped. (Mixture should be coarse textured but also hold together.)
Transfer to a large bowl and repeat with remaining half of unprocessed mixture, combining with first batch. Stir in panko, the remaining1 tsp. salt, and black pepper. Line baking sheet with paper towels. Divide mixture into 12 portions, about 1/2 cup each, shaping each into tightly packed patty, 4 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick; set patties on baking sheet and allow paper towel to absorb excess moisture. (Patties can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 3 days.)
Grill burgers 5 minutes per side on a well greased grill or cook in a bit of vegetable oil in a large non-stick skillet for 4 minutes per side. Yield: 12 burgers.
Vegetable stock
- 6 oz. fresh mushrooms, wiped clean and thickly sliced
- 4 Tbsp. olive oil
- 4 cups chopped onion
- 2 cups chopped celery
- 3 cups chopped carrot
- 1 cup chopped fennel bulb
- Salt
- 2 large cloves garlic, smashed
- 2 Tbsp. tomato paste
- 1 Tbsp fresh rosemary
- 2 tsp. dried thyme
- 1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
- 4 bay leaves
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
Sauté the mushrooms in a non-stick skillet (no added fat) until brown and the moisture has evaporated. Set aside.
Heat the olive oil over high heat in a large stockpot. Add the onions, celery, carrots, and fennel and salt. Cook over high heat for several minutes, stirring only occasionally. Cook 12-14 minutes or until they just begin to brown. Add garlic and tomato paste and stir well. Cook, stirring often, for 2-3 minutes, or until the tomato paste begins to darken. Add the reserved mushrooms, rosemary, thyme, peppercorns, bay leaves, parsley plus 4 quarts of water. Bring to a simmer; reduce heat so that the surface of the stock is just barely bubbling. (Cooking at a high temperature will cause stock to become cloudy.) Cook for 1-1/2 hours.
Using a slotted spoon, remove all the big pieces of vegetable and mushroom and discard. Strain half of stock through a sieve lined with cheesecloth (paper towel will work in a pinch). Change lining of strainer (it will be gunky!) and strain remaining stock. Store in fridge for up to a week or freeze. Yield: 5 quarts.
Paula Anderson is a freelance journalist specializing in food, entertaining and nutrition. She writes for several newspapers, as well as Maine Food & Lifestyle Magazine. She divides her time between Scarborough and Big Pine Key, Fla., where she lives with her husband Peter. Correspondence can be addressed to her at the Boothbay Register, P.O. Box 357, Boothbay Harbor, ME 04538 or the Wiscasset Newspaper, P.O. Box 429, Wiscasset, ME 04578. You can also write to her directly via email at pander@maine.rr.com.
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